Essies: loved by many but made by few

The aromas of ground cinnamon, ginger, naartjie skil (peel), cloves and cardamom fill the homes where essies are prepared during the days leading up to Eid.

This spicy sweet cookie, which is synonymous with Labarang (as Eid is typically known among Cape Malay Muslims in SA), is loved by many but made by few.

Originating from and unique to Nelson Mandela Bay, essies represent a long-standing tradition within the local Cape Malay community, passed down through generations.

While the recipe of essies has thankfully been preserved, there is not much known about the origin of the biscuit.

It is widely acknowledged, however, that the recipe has been lovingly transmitted through familial lines, with many elderly members of the community recalling, “we found it here”.

This unique, traditional biscuit was never commercialised, however, today there are few essie bakers in the metro.

Due to its scarcity, essie baking has become a business to those who possess the art of making this sweet delicacy.

Baking essies is indeed a form of art, requiring skill and technique, as each biscuit is meticulously shaped into an inverted S by hand, with the shape and size reflective of the baker’s expertise.

The essie is no ordinary biscuit — it is truly special. Its ingredients, including *potash, rooibol and yellow sugar, are as extraordinary as its shape.

While slight variations exist in recipes from baker to baker, the essence of the biscuit remains the same.

For instance, some may substitute bicarbonate of soda or baking powder for potash, yet the distinctiveness of the essie endures.

The recipe I am sharing was passed on to me by my mother.

Essie recipe:

250g butter

2 cups yellow sugar

Half cup oil

2 eggs

4 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon potash

Ground spices (1 teaspoon each): cinnamon, cardamom, dried ginger, naartjie peel

Half teaspoon ground cloves

Rooibol

Method:

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add oil and mix. Add eggs and mix. Add flour, potash and spices. Knead with the hand until a firm dough is formed. If dough is too soft (sticking to the hands), add a bit more flour.

Divide dough into two-thirds and a third. Add rooibol to the third (smaller portion) of the dough, using one spoon of rooibol. Depending on how deep you want the colour, you can add more rooibol.

Place a portion of the uncoloured dough on a well-floured surface and a smaller portion of red-coloured dough on top of it. Roll into rectangular shape about 15 to 20cm in length.

Use a pastry cutter and cut into strips of about 1cm wide (length will be about 15 to 20cm) and with the tips of your fingers, roll both ends of the strip simultaneously in opposite directions to meet in the middle and form an S.

Place on oiled or oil-sprayed baking sheets and bake at 180°C for 12 to 15 minutes.

*Potash is potassium carbonate and rooibol is a ferroxide powder formulation.

Note that oil is a modern ingredient. In the past, stertvet (sheep tail fat) was used.

Essies are part of our heritage in Nelson Mandela Bay. Let’s keep baking them!