The

Chiel

Live music cafe

symbol of new, 'cooler' Iran

While not exactly Teheran's answer to the Hard Rock Cafe, the Kuhsar is still the first live music cafe to open in Iran since the 1979 Islamic revolution.

And although Iran has no parallel to Tony Blair's image of a modernising "Britannia", the cafe is still a sign of the "cooler", more moderate Iran created by reforms initiated by President Mohammad Khatami since taking office last August.

"The Kuhsar is great," 29-year-old Nadush said of the cafe. "You dress up. You see fashionable people. You are seen. They play live music and you can have a great time until 3 o'clock in the morning."

The Kuhsar (or Mountain Venue) is the first music cafe to be granted permission from the Ershad (Culture Ministry) to play live traditional songs and folk music.

The move has come like a breath of fresh air for many Iranian urbanites, who in the past have had a tough time whiling away the dull but sultry Teheran nights.

"It's the new venue for the Teheran elite. It's like abroad ... men come with suits and ties. You can see foreigners and even the women dress up as far as the dress code allows," said Jahan, Nadush's male companion.

Kuhsar is located in the elegant Shemiran district of Teheran with a romantic setting beneath the Elburz Mountain. Customers have to book at least two weeks in advance and there are strict controls on who is allowed into the cafe, with an entry fee of 65 000 rials (more than R100).

The traditional music played in the cafe is mainly by composers and singers whose material is officially banned in Iran but has been tolerated under Khatami and the new Ershad Minister, Ayatollah Mohajerani.

The music is a major source of nostalgia for most of the guests, who are aged between 25 and 50. Dancing is still taboo but clapping hands, clicking the fingers, rhythmically but gently rocking the body while seated -- these are allowed.

A special table on the second floor of the cafe is allocated every night for Ershad officials whose watchful eyes ensure things do not get out of control.

"But they are polite and okay," Jahan said, adding with a smile: "Sometimes the rhythm of the songs also brings the Ershad guys into dance mood but, unfortunately, they control themselves."

The Ershad is responsible for supervising the press, books, films, theatres and music. It initially allowed only traditional and classical music to be sold but legality has now been expanded to instrumental music.

As a result you can now buy tapes by Blues giants such as Duke Ellington, Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie as well as popular musicians such as Kenny G and Richard Clayderman. Instrumental pieces of the psychedelic rock group Pink Floyd is a common choice on state-run TV and radio but are not yet on sale.

Some male guests at the Kuhsar wear ties, which are regarded with scepticism by Iran's spiritual leaders as a sign of Western decadence. Yet the cafe has also become a new night venue for foreigners too.

Women, who are still required to wear a long black gown and cover their heads, try to expose their expensive jewellery in the cafe along with curled forelocks -- the only piece of hair allowed to slip outside the obligatory scarf.

The Narenjestan Restaurant, another fashionable Teheran restaurant, was closed down last summer by Iranian police after the proprietors made the mistake of allowing music to be played during an Islamic mourning occasion.

"I hope they don't close down the Kuhsar. It would be such a pity," Nadush said. Her companion added: "The Kuhsar is the symbol of the new Iran. If it is closed down, it would mean the close-down of the new era." -- Sapa-DPA in Teheran

Thought for today

We do not do what we want and yet we are responsible for what we are -- that is the fact -- Jean-Paul Sartre, French philosopher (1905-1980)

From our files ...

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